Robin & Karen Living the Dream: 2 Day Slow Boat down the Mekong River

A slow boat trip down the Mekong River seemed like such a lovely thing to do so we had booked that long before we left home. We chose the company “Nagi of Mekong” as they rent the boats from local Lao families who then drive the boat and provide the meals, thus contributing to the local economy. We paid $140 US each plus our accommodation in the town halfway - you chose from a range of options, budget to luxury. There is an option of the “locals or cheap” boat, $50 US, no food, no comforts & no interesting stops. Not for us! We were picked up from our hotel and taken to the Thailand - Laos border, where they assisted us in obtaining our “visa on arrival” - cost of $40 US and a passport photo. Before we knew it we were through the border and officially in Laos. A short van ride and we were on the shores of the Mekong River where we boarded our boat, along with 31 other passengers from all over the world and a guide from Laos.

We all had tables to sit, plus loungers in the front

Snacks, drinks & lunch spot

Looking back towards the family’s section

Front section

A similar boat

We quickly settled into the relaxing pace of the river, enjoying the passing scenery, watching fishermen & locals on the shore, looking for water buffalo & goats & exploring the boat. We were travelling faster than we expected, even some areas of rapids. Before we knew it a buffet lunch was being served & you could buy some Beer Lao to go with it.

Water buffalo

Our captain

We stopped at a small village to wander through, the Lao people looking at us, looking at them. It was definitely a bit unsettling as there seemed no purpose to this, we expected perhaps some handicrafts being offered, but not. We saw rice & peppers drying, kids playing, pigs, dogs & chickens.

Rice drying

Back on the boat our guide was exchanging money - 1000 Thai baht ($40) for 624,000 Lao kip! Definitely need our handy currency converter here!

We arrived to the midway point of Pakbeng after travelling 150 km, (180 km to go tomorrow) by 4:30 to a scene of general pandemonium. Many boats arriving at the same time, trucks & tuk tuks waiting to transport people to all the hotels, but we made it to our hotel Villa Mekong Guesthouse.

Arriving at Pakbeng

Sunset over the Mekong River

Transport to the hotels

Basic, clean, hard bed

Overlooking the kitchen

Just a few boats!

Nothing fancy, our window overlooking the kitchen, restaurant deck above the Mekong, supper quite tasty. We ordered egg baguettes for breakfast, and had beers with supper - room & meals $57 CAD & we could use a credit card with no extra fee (3% usually added, if they even accept cards).

Up early, thanks to the rooster, Robin at 4:40 and onto the boat and away by 8:00. Cloudy, cool misty - actually needed a jacket and they handed out blankets. The sun came out at nine and it was a wonderful day. Robin even got to see an elephant bathing in the river, but a little too fast to get a photo.

Shoving off - the captain’s wife (& cook) & their grandson, done with school, happier on the boat

Our hotel, white one in the middle

They pan for gold along the river

The bullet train bridge

Building a dam on the Mekong

Egrets with the water buffalo

Goats

Many villages along the river

Gardens along the shore

Fisherman with his net

We stopped at Pak Ou caves, which are two large caves filled with small and large Buddha statues that people have left there over the years. Quite a steep walk up to the second cave, but we both made it.

The fast boat, very dangerous

Approaching Pak Ou caves

Inside the lower cave

The upper cave entrance

Inside the upper cave

View of some boats as we left

One more stop at a village that they call the whiskey village. We tried wine and whiskey made from sticky rice with a still right there and we toured through the handicraft market with all sorts of silks, silver, jewelry, and clothing.

Cheers

Bottles of whiskey with snakes & scorpions inside!

The still

Temple nearby

Lao version of 7-11

Kids fishing beside the boats

We arrived to the shore at Luang Prabang about 4:30 and some lovely porters carried our big bags up the hill. We got into minivans for transfers to our hotel into the “Old Town”. A bit of frustration as my ESIM initially wasn’t working & we didn’t love the hotel, but the phone sorted itself out & we found a nicer hotel after 2 nights so all was good!

We spent our first couple of days wandering around the “Old Town”, admiring the old French architecture, views along the Mekong & Nam Khan Rivers & jostling with the crowds in the night market. We are realizing that Laos is a poorer country than Thailand but things cost more and you get a little less. Luang Prabang has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site and has lots to offer.