Robin & Karen Living the Dream: Icebergs!!

We got word that there may be icebergs at Hampton down secondary Highway 420. Wow! We couldn't believe the numbers & beauty of them! The locals told us the ice moved in June 1 (two weeks ago) overnight - packed the inlet, several miles long. The ice makes the water cold and keeps the capelin (small fish) out - once the capelin come the humpbacks will follow.

We got an inside scoop on a good Seaglass beach in Springdale - lots there and lots melted, Not sure of the story behind it, but we collected a few pieces.

June 13 we had to turn on the furnace for the first time as the high only reached 8°C. Arrived in Twillingate, checked into an RV park - $39 cash and went out for pizza and “the mess” fries - a Newfie hangover cure - fries smothered in stuffing, ground beef, cheese, and gravy - very tasty!

Off for our iceberg tour with Captain Dave’s BoatTours - first we were outfitted with the appropriate North Atlantic clothing, fur-lined hats, ski pants, heavy gloves, and parkas if you needed one, and none of it was overkill! It was cold out there! The sun decided to shine just as we got out to the bergs and it was magical. We got up close to over 10 big icebergs, lots of blue colour, different shapes and sizes. Rough seas, some swells further out were 2 to 3 m tall pushing our little boat around. When we got back to shore safely, we realized that there was never any mention of lifejackets! We found out that icebergs are not a guarantee in Twillingate, “The iceberg capital” had dozens this year, but only one last year and none in 2021.

of course they had a gift shop!

whale baleen

don't we look adorable

As we were travelling on the one highway that goes all around Newfoundland, we were seeing a lot of the same people which reminded us of our Baja travels. We did some shopping in the seafood market, bought cooked crab legs and had a picnic. Twillingate Lobster Supper and Dinner Theatre was delicious, I even ate mussels! And the show was some good Newfie music and comedy.

the lady is using an "ugly stick" - musical instrument

our picnic of crab legs

On to the Bonavista Peninsula and the town of Elliston as recommended, in our quest to see puffins. Cool, rainy weather, but we were not disappointed - puffins 1 to 2 m away from us, many more 30 m away on an island. Another magical experience!!

an island 30 metres away covered with puffins

Elliston‘s other claim to fame is being home to over 100 root cellars built into the hills-a way to keep root vegetables over the winter.

Spent a couple of hours at the Ryan Premises national historic site learning about the history of the fishery and seal hunting in Newfoundland.

Continuing onto the Avalon peninsula ,we checked out seaglass in Dildo, the sight of the first trans Atlantic telegraph cable (1866) in Hearts Content & Hawthorne Cottage National Historic Site in Brigus, home of Captain Bob Bartlett, a famous Arctic explorer and relative of a friend of ours.

we popped into the odd local market & Robin found an "ugly stick"

Arrived in St. John’s Newfoundland June 17 - had a great walk about taking photos of all the colorful row housing, the waterfront, huge historic churches and massive boats in the harbour (supply ships for offshore drilling rigs). Had lunch and beers in Quide Vidi Village, an old fishing village dating back to the late 1600’s.

Quidi Vidi village

Quidi Vidi brewery

We toured Cabot Tower and Signal Hill – another national historic site and included with our annual Parks pass. Great views, but another foggy day. Finally figured we should book a ferry to “get off the rock” - booked on June 19 and able to get on for June 23 for $194. Who says you have to be organized or preplan things!

looking down at St John's from Signal Hill

Johnson’s Geo Centre (built right into the rock of Signal Hill) was an interesting science centre - exhibits on the geology and rocks of Newfoundland and Labrador, watched a creepy film on the intelligence of octopuses and toured a section detailing the offshore oil drilling in Newfoundland.

Stopped for lunch in Petty Harbour on our way to Cape Spear - another go at Newfie poutine - “the recovery” complete with ground beef, stuffing, peas, onions, mushrooms, cheese, and gravy and “the moose mess” - similar but moose meat and no cheese - surprisingly good!

More fog and rain at Cape Spear – toured the Fort that provided protection for the ships in World War II that resupplied in St. John’s and headed overseas in convoys. We had our photo taken in front of the plaque, indicating Canada‘s most easterly point and toured Newfoundland oldest surviving lighthouse (since 1836). Five generations of one family tended this lighthouse.

Canada's most easterly point

the original lighthouse

the new lighthouse

June 19 we officially turned around to head west - 9702 km so far. There are two ferries from Newfoundland to the mainland - a 16 hour ferry from St. John’s - much longer and much more expensive (well over $700 with a cabin) or back to Port aux Basque and the seven hour ferry. We chose to retrace our route, almost 1000 km to Port a Basque.

caribou

We finally found spring - wildflowers, everything green, able to have windows open, and to ditch the long pants. Of course, Robin was still wearing shorts. He did actually wear long pants for the iceberg boat tour. But the little biting black flies are relentless!

Uneventful ferry crossing - did spot a whale spout. Got off the ferry to 27°C in North Sydney.

Found the perfect “wild camping”spot on iOverlander just before the Cabot Trail - a rocky jut out into the ocean at Saint Ann’s Bay.

We are now in Nova Scotia on Cape Breton Island, stopped in Baddeck for supplies and to visit the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site, outlining his life and his many inventions and passions. We realize that he did a lot more than invent the telephone.

Headed north on the Cabot Trail - very scenic lupines blooming, lots of trees ,up to 280 m elevation and back down. We sprung for a full service campground in the national park - now we need our A/C!

very windy area so barns & houses are connected to avoid going outside

Decided a hike was in order - only 5 km around Warren Lake, but hot and humid -a long slog!

Popped into an out-of-the-way shop, “Tartans and Treasures” and checked out all the options of things to buy in my Davidson tartan (my maternal grandfather’s.)

Another lovely, wild camping spot near Pleasant Bay – down a local road to a small fishing harbour overlooking the ocean - watching a seal and fisherman checking lobster traps. Had a chat with a lobster buyer waiting for the boats to come in and learned a lot about lobster fishing. The license can cost $1 million, can have 250 traps, they’re out for 6 to 8 hours, they get about $8.50/lb., and it’s highly regulated and checked by fisheries and oceans.

the view out our side window

Continuing on the Cabot Trail, we did “a bog” boardwalk hike and on to the famous Skyline Trail (the most popular in the park). A wooded 6.5 km return hike, the end a series of boardwalks with stairs out to the edge of cliffs - complete with a sign cautioning everyone to be careful as the wind gusts could be up to 200 km/hr! It was a very windy day & we had difficulty standing near the end! Amazing vista of the ocean, the curvy hiway & the coastline.