Monday, 20 March 2017

Whales and Beaches

Before we left Cabo we headed out on one more fossil hunting trip north of San Jose into the desert. We stopped at a place we hadn’t been before and we got lucky – lots of sea shell fossils, fossilized bone and I found the ultimate prize – a Megeladon tooth!! We were 300 metres above sea level and far from the current coast. We truly are crazy because it was 32 C with no shade and still we spent the day out there. Robin also found a stone arrowhead in excellent condition, a good day all around.
Megeladon tooth!


arrowhead
Robin in the pool at Cabo Glorieta

how we buy oranges


We left Cabo on March 1 to begin our trek home. We like the travel days – you can’t beat the view out of our huge windshield, being up pretty high and the scenery changes constantly. We stopped at our favorite beach – Playa Santispac and spent a week, kayaking, visiting with friends, enjoying tamales for breakfast, clamming and my turn to over indulge on margaritas. We stocked up on shrimp, scallops and crab – all bought fresh on the beach from the vendors.

Santispac sunset

rays

kayaking

can't beat an ice cream cart on the beach!

We were taken to a “secret” swimming hole on the Magdalena river, beautiful area, picnic lunch and fun watching the 7 dogs that our group brought along. Nearby was the town of San Jose Magdalena, the garlic capital of Baja. We stopped to ask an old fellow about buying some, he took us to a house in town where the back area had a field of garlic growing, garlic drying and piles of braided garlic. We all stocked up – a braid with 25 heads cost $4. Unfortunately we are storing this in our car so I’m not sure if the smell will ever leave! His front flower garden was quite unique – in among the flowers were sticks with colorful lids from fabric softener, soap, etc. on them, very pretty.
Magdelena swimming spot


our garlic salesmen

interesting garden "flowers"


Continuing northward we stopped in San Ignacio for a whale watching trip. The church there was built in 1786 of limestone and the walls are 4 ft. thick. Our friends camped by the lagoon there, a marvelous spot, very calm and relaxing.

San Ignacio church

pretty fancy hardware store

camping by the lagoon

We were excited for another whale watching trip – this time to see the gray whales and their calves. It was a magical time, our captain found us several “friendly” whales that were willing to bring the calves up to the boat so we could touch them – they actually push them up to us! Not sure if being covered in whale snot/spray is lucky but we hope so!
sprayed with whale "snot"




mama pushing baby up to us





This year we decided to embark on a new adventure – taking the unfinished road across to meet Hiway 5. Every year they pave a bit more, this year there was still 38 kms of rough, rocky gravel road which crosses the mountains. Yes we are crazy – it is not recommended for RV’s, only for trucks and SUVs, but people had taken it and said we should make it! It was an unpleasant 2 hrs and 40 min. of going an average of 15 km/hr. bumping along, getting very dusty. In the middle of this lies Coco’s Corner – an icon in the off road racing circuit. A fellow, Coco, arrived here 27 years ago, in the middle of nowhere and greets travellers with cold beer and a very strange home. There is race memorabilia all over in addition to a lot of women’s underwear hanging from the ceiling.
the road across the mountains

the car used to be blue/silver


Coco's Corner
spring flowers blooming everywhere

boojum tree

 The road took us to Gonzaga Bay and for this it was worth it! This may be our new favorite beach camp – huge palapas on the beach, calm water perfect for kayaking and very peaceful. Great place to collect sand dollars as long as you stay away from the rather large orange jellyfish. No power, no cell phone, no Wi-Fi. We saw a Mexican fellow catch an octopus in his hat – they planned to take it home for supper!
sunrise at Gonzaga Bay

one of 3 different lizards we saw, the others were too quick!

kayaking on water like glass


octopus in a hat!



our very spacious palapa


jellyfish


From there it was a short drive to San Felipe, a favorite place for Californians to hit the beach – lots of Gringo owned houses and many, many RV parks. We found a strange park a ways from town – it was the victim of a storm in 2004 that damaged the infrastructure and the owner walked away after he got his insurance money 3 years later. The caretaker mans a rope gate and collects the fee – the brick paved roadways are the only thing in good shape – the sites are filled with sand, the services long buried, the buildings stand empty. A few folks spend the winter there and several trailers lie abandoned – one has blue chairs and a quad covered in sand beside a decent looking trailer (photo below, look closely). The beach is just below and the tide goes out a long, long way, leaving warm pools of water for cooling off in.



almost abandoned RV park

chairs and quad buried under the sand

From there we continued north, thru Mexicali and to the border. Our motorhome was X-rayed and we were sent on our way, lucky they didn’t spot the boxes of rocks, driftwood and shells! We arrived in Yuma to a balmy 38C or 100F, apparently the hottest temp. in the US that day! Thank heaven for A/C!
We are still living the dream!



Saturday, 25 February 2017

February fun in Cabo

We have been in Cabo for almost 2 months; in a few days we start our journey northward, here is a look at the last month.

We like our road trips so we thought we would take the coast road (mainly sand with a bit of gravel) and head north to Los Barriles. We didn’t realize that there was an off road race going on, using the road we were on – imagine our surprise we when came upon a barricade and a whole lot of dust! We had to turn around and go back, 70 km so instead we made it a beaches day, complete with picnic.


coastal road

goats everywhere here

off-road racing

picnic on the beach



Todos Santos is an “artsy” town north along the Pacific; we did a day trip there with Barb & Bill, friends who are also camping here in Cabo Glorieta. Lots of handicrafts to see, lunch & beer and a stop at the blanket factory.




We have gotten the hang of doing timeshare presentations – we have done a total of 5, all included breakfast, drinks if you wanted, sitting thru their “spiel”, touring the property and telling them we weren’t interested. We have netted $950 US cash, 2 separate whale watching tours, a sunset dinner cruise and a bottle of Kahlua. If it was up to Robin we would have done more, but I got tired of them – plus we had to lie and say we were staying in a hotel or resort. Not too hard to do as the guy who sets you up coaches you beforehand. The fanciest was Diamante, with the world’s 2nd largest swimming pool and the world’s 38th best golf course.
 
the pool at Diamante
We have done another trip out to look for fossils and Megaladon teeth(ancient shark), found more large fossilized bones but no teeth.

fossilized bones, ? whale


cacti blooming

Took in the San Jose Organic market - huge outdoor market with everything from fruit & veggies to handicrafts to lunch, plus music. Lots of new ideas for crafts for us.

beautiful bead work


Megaladon teeth

The water here is pretty cold, mid 70’s F but I have been snorkeling a few times. We spend lots of time at the beaches, looking for sea glass, wading in the water and people watching. If we are lucky we see whales and bat rays.


Chileno beach

3 cruise ships in Cabo harbor

We did our 2nd whale watching trip, didn’t even get wet this time! Saw a gray whale very close to shore and fortunate to see two whales breaching together!

dolphins swimming with our boat

2 humpbacks breaching!

rolling humpbacks

baby humpback doing rolls

It is much too easy to go out for meals here, food is good and prices are very good. We have found a good Chinese place and have now had shark fin soup. We went out for seafood with friends and had a Mexican family in to the park for supper with Barb & Bill one day. The Mexican family lived and worked at the RV park we stayed in 3 & 4 years ago – Julio brought his 3 kids & wife plus his cousin’s family – 10 of them piled out of an old Honda Civic!
Bill & Barb, Chris & Bert
Julio & family

We made it to Los Barriles, took the hiway instead of the dirt coast road – ran into a Spanish couple that we met this year and had a good visit. Checked out the campgrounds, still too windy for us there.
 
Tropic of Cancer monument

wall mural

We had a crazy rainstorm one day, must have gotten 2 inches in a couple hours, rivers of water everywhere.


We decided to venture out on another road trip, soon after the rainstorm, a bit worried about the roads but what the heck! Initially the plan was to go north & east but instead we took a gravel road west, stopping to wander about here & there checking out rocks. A fellow traveller came along on his bicycle and told us that the road “should” continue across the mountains to Todos Santos. So of course we decided to keep going. The road slowly deteriorated into a goat trail! We only had to stop and actually “rebuild” the road once (fill in holes with big rocks). We crossed water 11 times, scraped bottom several times and I had my eyes closed a few times! It was 55 km. across, once we saw the Pacific we got excited, but ended up still having 20 km to go. But we made it! We deserved a beach break by then so we stopped at Cerritos beach on the Pacific to watch the surfers and the waves.  Then back south an hour drive to Cabo.

goat trail!


had to add rocks here

Cerritos beach


We have neighbors here in an RV from Alaska – they are 80 & 84, but they don’t look it –they have shamed us into getting more active. She walks 4 miles most days and he goes out on his bicycle for a long ride. We have started taking a morning walk/jog, at least 3-5 km. – we figure it’s a start. Plus it should help offset the cervesas and good food.
We continue to feed the birds, so had to add a couple shots.
Cardinal

woodpecker & cardinal enjoying the "shower" from the hose

gray thrasher
Being in a city here it is easy to forget that this is still a 3rd world country - then you see kids everywhere being held in arms in cars, no car seats or even seat belts; you see walkers still being sold and you read about cars that are made to be sold in Mexico where the air bags are options! And the presence of the police and military is hard to miss. Sad.
baby walkers, long outlawed in Canada

yes those are machine guns!

We leave Cabo on March 1 to begin our month long trek home; we will hopefully fit in a beach stay, some more sight-seeing and catch up with some old friends. We continue to “live the dream” – but it sure will be good to see the kids and grandkids soon.